Kinkaku-ji, Ryoan-ji, Nijo Castle and Nishiki Market: the north and the center

The Golden Pavilion as it opens, the 15-stone garden of Ryoan-ji, then down to the center: a castle with a floor that chirps, a 400-year-old market, and the lantern alley along the river.

A day in northwest Kyoto and the center. You start at the Golden Pavilion of Kinkaku-ji as it opens, walk to the 15-stone garden of Ryoan-ji and to Ninna-ji, and ride the bus to the city center: Nijo Castle with its chirping floor, the 400-year-old Nishiki Market, and after a break at the hotel, an evening in Pontocho and on the bank of the Kamo River. About 5 km on foot, most of it in the morning. A day pass for the subway and buses, ¥1,100, barely pays off if you are staying near Kyoto Station: a bus to Kinkaku-ji, two buses from Ninna-ji to the castle, the subway to the market and the subway back at night come to ¥1,170 in single tickets. The ¥700 one-day bus pass no longer exists.

Verified online, September 20269 stops · 08:45 to 21:15¥10,200 · ≈ $65 per personWalking between stops: 67 min · Transport: ¥680Must on a first tripRain-friendly (partly)One-day bus pass

The day on a map

9 stops, in order

Stops: 9
Walking minutes: 57

Stop number on the timelineWalkingTrain, metro or busBase map: © OpenStreetMap

Open this day in Google Maps

The same stops with the same numbers, and the way from stop to stop. On a phone it opens in the app, and that is what you navigate with in Japan. Pin names on the map are in Hebrew.

Getting there: From Kyoto Station: city bus 205 to the Kinkakuji-michi stop, ¥230. On a weekday morning the ride takes 46 minutes (the 07:55 bus arrives at 08:41), so board by 07:45. Faster: the subway Karasuma Line from Kyoto to Kitaoji, 13 minutes, ¥260, and from the bus terminal above the station a bus to Kinkakuji-michi, about a quarter of an hour including the walk to the terminal, ¥230. If you are staying in Shijo-Kawaramachi, take city bus 12 at the Shijo-Kawaramachi stop, 34 minutes (the 07:45 arrives at 08:19), ¥230. From the stop it is about 5 minutes on foot to the gate.

08:4509:45
Stop 1TempleMust
Kinkaku-ji: the Golden Pavilion reflected in the pond
You start at the Golden Pavilion. It opens at 09:00, and you arrive a quarter of an hour early to be first in line. The pavilion is covered in gold leaf. It was rebuilt after it was set on fire in 1950, a story that became a Mishima novel. The route is one-way and takes 40 minutes. The ticket is a paper amulet, so keep it.
¥500 · ≈ $3Open in Maps About this place
Walk to Ryoan-ji
- Walk · 20 minFrom the gate walk along Kinukake-no-michi, the road that links the three temples of the morning, to the gate of Ryoan-ji. About 1.7 km.
- or: Bus · 15 min · ¥230City bus 59 from Kinkakuji-michi, 5 minutes on foot from the gate, to Ryoanji-mae, 4 stops, 7 to 11 minutes. It runs every quarter of an hour, so with the wait it is not faster than walking.
10:0011:00
Stop 2Zen gardenMust
Ryoan-ji: the 15-stone garden
The sand and stone garden: 15 stones, and according to the common story, from any one point you see only 14. Sit on the veranda for 10 minutes in silence, and that is the whole point. Around it there is a pond with lotus and a trail through the woods.
¥600 · ≈ $4Open in Maps About this place
On to Ninna-ji
- Walk · 14 minContinue west and south along the same road, Kinukake-no-michi, to the great gate of Ninna-ji. About 1.1 km.
11:1512:15
Stop 3TempleIf there is time
Ninna-ji: the pagoda and the late cherry blossoms
A World Heritage temple with a five-story pagoda, a palace with gardens, and the Omuro cherry trees, which are the last to bloom in Kyoto, in mid-April. Almost no tourists compared with its neighbors. Entry to the grounds is free, and the palace and garden are ¥800.
¥800 · ≈ $5Open in Maps About this place
Ride to the center, to Nijo Castle
- Bus · 35 min · ¥460Two buses from the Omuro-Ninnaji stop, opposite the gate: bus 10 to Kitano-Hakubaicho, 6 stops, 12 minutes, and a change to bus 50 to Nijojo-mae, 11 stops, 17 minutes. ¥230 per bus, or on the day pass.
- or: Train · 35 min · ¥510The same time by train: the Randen from Omuro-Ninnaji to Katabiranotsuji, 5 stations, a change to the Arashiyama Line to Randen Tenjingawa, 3 stations, ¥250, and from there the subway Tozai Line from Uzumasa-Tenjingawa to Nijojo-mae, 3 stations, ¥260. The day pass is not valid on the Randen.
12:4513:45
Stop 4LunchRecommended
Lunch break near Nijo Castle
You eat before the castle, around Nijojo-mae Station, which has soba, ramen and cafes. An alternative: postpone lunch to Nishiki Market, at stop 6, and eat there stall by stall. And if you sit down here:
- Soba Tatsuichi
  Ni-hachi soba, eight parts buckwheat and two parts wheat, about 4 minutes from Exit 2 of the station. 11:30 to 22:00, last order at 21:00, no fixed closing day.
- Kissa TirolAbout ¥1,000
  An old Japanese cafe with 14 seats, on Tabelog's list of 100 traditional cafes in 2021, 2022 and 2026, about 5 minutes from the station. People come for a thick egg sandwich or the curry. Monday to Saturday 08:00 to 16:00, last order at 15:30, closed on Sundays and holidays, cash only.
- Kosher or vegan? Every kosher and vegan place in this city
¥1,200 · ≈ $8Open in Maps
Across to the castle
- Walk · 5 minFrom the station cross Horikawa Street to the castle's east gate, where the ticket offices are.
14:0015:30
Stop 5CastleMust
Nijo Castle: the shogun's palace and the nightingale floor
The Kyoto palace of the Tokugawa shogun, from 1603. The floors in the Ninomaru Palace chirp as you walk on them. According to the castle the sound comes from clamps rubbing against nails, and the story that they were built that way to warn of assassins is a mistake. The gilded wall paintings, with the tigers, are still there. Inside you walk in socks. Around it is a large garden, and the whole visit needs at least an hour and a half.
¥1,300 · ≈ $8Open in Maps About this place
Ride to Nishiki Market
- Metro · 15 min · ¥220From the east gate go back to Nijojo-mae Station. Tozai Line to Karasuma-Oike, one station, and a change to the Karasuma Line south to Shijo, one station: 8 minutes including the change. From the station it is about 3 minutes on foot to the western entrance of the market.
- or: Bus · 20 min · ¥230City bus 12 from Nijojo-mae to Shijo-Karasuma, 16 minutes. Slower than the subway, and only for those who prefer not to go down into the subway.
16:0017:00
Stop 6MarketMust
Nishiki Market: Kyoto's kitchen
400 years, 130 stalls, and one covered lane: quail eggs on octopus, Kyoto pickles, tamagoyaki and sake. Eat next to the stall and not while walking, as the signs say. At 17:00 they start closing, so do not arrive later than that.
¥1,500 · ≈ $10Open in Maps About this place
17:0518:15
Break
Back to the hotel before the evening
The day starts at 08:45 and ends after 21:00, and after the market there is a free hour until dinner. If you are staying in Shijo-Kawaramachi, walk to the hotel: the market ends at Teramachi Street, about 200 meters from Kawaramachi. If you are staying in Gion, continue about a quarter of an hour east, across the river. If you are staying near Kyoto Station, take the subway from Shijo Station, near the western end of the market, 2 stations, 3 minutes, ¥220, and on the way back leave at 18:05: the subway to Kyoto-Shiyakusho-mae, changing at Karasuma-Oike, 11 minutes, ¥260, plus about 6 minutes on foot to Pontocho. If you are not going back to the hotel, continue to the Teramachi and Shinkyogoku arcades, at the next stop.
On to the arcades
- Walk · 5 minWalk east to the end of the market. It ends at the covered Teramachi arcade, and Shinkyogoku runs parallel to it, one street to the east.
17:1518:15
Stop 7ShoppingIf there is time
Teramachi and Shinkyogoku: the arcades of the center
Two parallel arcades, with 19th-century shops (seals, brushes, tea) alongside manga and clothing shops. The Ippodo tea shop, the umbrella shop, and a Loft branch for gadgets. Most of the large shops are tax-free.
FreeOpen in Maps
Down to Pontocho
- Walk · 8 minLeave the arcade onto Shijo Street and walk east, cross Kawaramachi Street and the Takase canal, and turn north into Pontocho just before the bridge. About 500 meters.
On the way you can stop at:
Kiyamachi and the Takase canal: A narrow canal dug around 1611 to carry goods by boat from Kyoto to Fushimi. Along it runs Kiyamachi Street, with bars and restaurants, parallel to Pontocho.
18:3020:00
Stop 8DinnerMust
Dinner in Pontocho
A narrow alley 490 meters long, with lanterns and wooden houses, and restaurants in every price range: yakitori, Kyoto-style okonomiyaki or kaiseki. From 1 May to 15 October the restaurants build wooden terraces above the river, yuka, and you book a terrace ahead. Without a terrace, eat whatever you feel like:
- Teppan MitsukiAbout ¥2,500
  Teppanyaki and okonomiyaki on Kiyamachi Street, near Shijo Street, minutes from the alley. 17:00 to 01:00, last order at midnight, closed on Wednesdays.
- Omen, Pontocho branch
  A branch of the udon restaurant from Ginkaku-ji, at the southern end of the alley: thick udon you dip in broth, with seasonal vegetables, crispy burdock and sesame. 17:00 to 21:00 in the evening, closed on some Thursdays.
- ChoiceVegan, not kosher
  A vegan, gluten-free cafe across Sanjo Bridge, about 9 minutes on foot: burgers, brown rice risotto and pancakes. Dinner 17:00 to 20:00 (last food order), closed on Wednesdays.
- Kosher or vegan? Every kosher and vegan place in this city
¥4,000 · ≈ $25For a terrace above the river, 1 May to 15 October, book aheadOpen in Maps About this place
Down to the riverbank
- Walk · 5 minWalk north through the alley to its end at Sanjo Street, and go down the steps to the bank by the bridge. About 400 meters.
20:1521:15
Stop 9NightRecommended
The Kamo riverbank: the couples and the musicians
You finish on the bank. Between the Sanjo and Shijo bridges everyone sits on the bank at equal intervals, a Kyoto custom. Buy a drink at a konbini and join in, for free. From here you head back: Keihan's Sanjo Station is right on the river, and to Kyoto Station you ride the subway from Sanjo-Keihan, changing at Karasuma-Oike, 11 minutes, ¥260.
¥300 · ≈ $2Open in Maps About this place

Kinkaku-ji, Ryoan-ji, Nijo Castle and Nishiki Market: the north and the center

9 stops, in order

Kinkaku-ji: the Golden Pavilion reflected in the pond

Ryoan-ji: the 15-stone garden

Ninna-ji: the pagoda and the late cherry blossoms

Lunch break near Nijo Castle

Nijo Castle: the shogun's palace and the nightingale floor

Nishiki Market: Kyoto's kitchen

Back to the hotel before the evening

Teramachi and Shinkyogoku: the arcades of the center

Dinner in Pontocho

The Kamo riverbank: the couples and the musicians

Ginkaku-ji, the Philosopher's Path and Nanzen-ji: northern Higashiyama on foot

Kurama and Kibune: a walk on the tengu's mountain, the water shrine, and a meal above the stream

Kids' day in Kyoto: the Railway Museum, the Aquarium, To-ji and Kyoto Tower

Walking Kyoto's eastern hills: from Ginkaku-ji to Gion via the Philosopher's Path

Fushimi Inari: the torii gates at sunrise, Tofuku-ji and the sake district

Higashiyama: Kiyomizu-dera in the morning, the Sannenzaka lanes, and Gion in the evening