Tokyo Metropole & Greater Kanto · Hakone
Hakone: the ropeway loop, sulfur eggs, Lake Ashi and an onsen
The classic loop from Tokyo: a mountain railway, a ropeway over a volcanic valley with black eggs, a pirate ship on a lake facing Fuji, a torii gate in the water, and an onsen to finish. With the Hakone Pass it is all included.
A day trip from Tokyo to the Hakone loop, six kinds of transport in one day. From Hakone-Yumoto you climb on the mountain railway to the open-air sculpture museum, eat lunch in Gora, continue by cable car and ropeway over the sulfur valley of Owakudani, cross Lake Ashi on the pirate ship and reach the torii gate in the water. You close the day at Tenzan onsen, near Hakone-Yumoto, and the train back. About 5 km on foot. In single tickets the loop from Shinjuku and back, without the Romancecar, costs ¥8,760: ¥1,270 each way on the Odakyu, the mountain railway ¥460 and ¥160, the cable car ¥430, the ropeway ¥2,000, the ship ¥1,700 and the buses ¥1,470. The two-day Hakone Pass from Shinjuku costs ¥7,100, so it saves about ¥1,660 in a single day. From Odawara the math is similar: ¥6,940 in tickets against ¥6,000 for the pass. 'Included in the pass' does not mean free: without a pass, the ropeway and the ship alone cost ¥3,700.
This day is part of: The Golden Route in a week: Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto and Osaka, day by day · Ten days in Japan: Tokyo, Hakone, the Alps, Kyoto and Osaka · Two weeks in Japan: Tokyo, Nikko, Hakone, the Alps, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Osaka
The day on a map
8 stops, in order
- Stops
- 8
- Walking minutes
- 27
- Hakone Tozan Railway, then Train
- The Open-Air Museum, then Train 15 min
- Lunch break in Gora, then Ropeway 25 min
- The ropeway to Owakudani, then Ropeway 25 min
- The pirate ship on Lake Ashi, then Cruise
- Hakone Shrine and the torii gate standing in the water, then Bus 55 min
- Tenzan, then Walk 27 min
- Dinner in Hakone-Yumoto and the train back
The same stops with the same numbers, and the way from stop to stop. On a phone it opens in the app, and that is what you navigate with in Japan. Pin names on the map are in Hebrew.
Getting there: From Shinjuku Station: the Odakyu Romancecar direct to Hakone-Yumoto, 1 hour 25 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes, for example the 07:20 that arrives at 08:47. ¥2,470: ¥1,270 for the ride plus ¥1,200 for the reserved seat, and with the Hakone Pass you pay only the ¥1,200. Without the Romancecar: an Odakyu express to Odawara and a change to the Hakone Tozan Railway, about two hours, ¥1,270. From Tokyo Station: the JR Tokaido Line to Odawara and from there the Hakone Tozan Railway, 1 hour 41 minutes, ¥1,960, after JR East's fare increase on 14 March 2026. The two-day Hakone Pass: ¥7,100 from Shinjuku, including the Odakyu there and back, and ¥6,000 from Odawara, if you come by JR. The pass covers the mountain railway, the cable car, the ropeway, the ship and the area buses, but not the Romancecar supplement.
TrainMust
Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto
You start on the Romancecar, the train with the panoramic window (on the GSE model the passengers in the front row sit in front of the driver). Buy a bento at the station. The pass covers the regular train, and the Romancecar seat is paid separately. If you are sleeping in the area, leave your suitcase at Hakone-Yumoto with the hotel delivery service (¥1,000).
Up on the mountain railway
Stop 1Mountain railwayMust
Hakone Tozan Railway: three switchbacks among the hydrangeas
An old train that climbs 500 meters, with three points where the driver moves to the other end and the train continues in the opposite direction. In June and July the track is lined with blooming hydrangeas.
Walk to the museum

Stop 2MuseumMust
The Open-Air Museum: sculptures among the mountains and a foot onsen
Sculptures by Henry Moore, Miro and Rodin on lawns facing the mountains, a stained-glass tower you climb, and a Picasso museum. The net sculpture that children climb is a sure hit. ¥2,000 at the door, ¥1,800 online in advance. At the end of the route a foot onsen, free. Open all year.
Up to Gora for lunch
Stop 3LunchRecommended
Lunch break in Gora
Gora is the last station of the mountain railway, and it has soba houses and bakeries. Eat here, because up in the sulfur valley the choice is small, mostly eggs and ice cream. Pick one:
Up to the sulfur valley

Stop 4Ropeway and volcanoMust
The ropeway to Owakudani: the sulfur valley and the black eggs
The ropeway passes over yellow steaming vents, and on clear days Fuji is opposite you. At Owakudani they sell eggs cooked in the hot springs, their shells turned black. By tradition each egg adds 7 years to your life. Four eggs for ¥500. The ropeway closes during volcanic activity, so check in the morning. For maintenance a bus replaces it, every 15 minutes and very crowded: between Owakudani and Sounzan from 7 to 24 December 2026, and between Togendai and Owakudani from 12 January to 26 February 2027. The Hakone Pass is valid on the bus.
Down to the lake

Stop 5CruiseMust
The pirate ship on Lake Ashi
From Togendai, the ropeway's lower station, a decorated ship crosses the volcanic lake. To Moto-Hakone it takes about 40 minutes, and in the afternoon the ship leaves every 35 to 40 minutes: 14:30, 15:10, 15:50. A one-way ticket is ¥1,700 since October 2025. Fuji is behind on clear days, more in the morning than in the afternoon. Get off at Moto-Hakone, not at Hakone-machi.
Walk to the shrine

Stop 6ShrineMust
Hakone Shrine and the torii gate standing in the water
A shrine in a forest of ancient cedars, and a red torii gate standing in the lake. For the photo at the gate there is an orderly line of 20 to 40 minutes, and you move up in turn. The path along the lake, with 400-year-old Edo cedars, leads to Hakone-machi and the bus.
Ride to the onsen
Stop 7OnsenRecommended
Tenzan: an open-air onsen among the rocks
A day onsen near Hakone-Yumoto, with outdoor pools among rocks and trees. ¥1,450, cash only, towel extra. Open until 23:00, last entry at 22:00. Tattoos: according to Tenzan, if you come alone you are admitted even with a tattoo, but several people with tattoos together are not. The policy changes, so check on site. For the shy or for families: Yunessun, an onsen water park with swimsuits (¥3,500).
Down to Hakone-Yumoto
Stop 8Dinner and trainRecommended
Dinner in Hakone-Yumoto and the train back
You close the day in Hakone-Yumoto. On the main street opposite the station: soba, tonkatsu, and a bakery cafe with green tea cakes. The last Romancecar to Shinjuku leaves at around 19:50 and arrives at 21:25, and you book a seat on it in advance. If you eat at leisure, you go back afterwards on regular Odakyu trains with changes, ¥1,270, for example the 20:06 that arrives in Shinjuku at 21:57. If you are sleeping at a ryokan: the kaiseki dinner is waiting, and tomorrow you continue to Fuji. Eat near the station:
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Written as a draft and verified by hand against official sources. Opening hours and prices change, so check before you go.