Two weeks in Japan: Tokyo, Nikko, Hakone, the Alps, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Osaka
Two weeks that cover most of what people come to see the first time: Tokyo and Nikko, a night in a ryokan in Hakone, Takayama, Shirakawa-go and Kanazawa, four days in Kyoto and Nara, Hiroshima and Miyajima, and Osaka at the end. Fourteen verified days, with no day repeated.
The route on a map
From Tokyo to Osaka
- Stations
- 10
- Days
- 14
- TokyoDays 1-2
- NikkoDay 3
- HakoneDay 4
- KanazawaDay 7
- KyotoDays 8-10
- NaraDay 11
- OsakaDays 12, 14
- HiroshimaDay 13
Every stop, numbered in day order and coloured by day, with the way from stop to stop. On a phone it opens in the app, and that is what you navigate with in Japan. Pin names on the map are in Hebrew.
Getting there: Land at Narita or Haneda, fly out of Kansai (Osaka): an open-jaw ticket saves a day of travel. The big suitcase goes by takkyubin from Tokyo straight to your hotel in Kyoto (¥2,500), and for the four nights in Hakone, Takayama and Kanazawa you take a small bag. A one-week JR Pass (¥50,000) does not pay off: all the JR rides on this trip together cost about ¥46,000 in individual tickets, and they are spread over nine days, from day 5 to day 13, so a one-week pass does not cover them all. To Nikko you take the Tobu railway, which is not JR.
Day 1, TokyoMust
Tokyo: Shibuya, Harajuku and Meiji Shrine
The first day, after a night of jet lag: Meiji Shrine in its forest in the morning, Takeshita Street, the crossing, and Shibuya Sky for sunset. The full route: Shibuya, Harajuku and Meiji Shrine: the first day in Tokyo.
Metro 30 min ↓
Day 2, TokyoMust
Tokyo: Asakusa, Ueno and Skytree
Old Tokyo: Senso-ji before the crowds, the kitchenware street, the National Museum, Ameyoko market, and Skytree at sunset, with dinner at the foot of the tower. The full route: Asakusa, Ueno and Skytree: old Tokyo in one day. It is worth sleeping near Asakusa, since tomorrow's train to Nikko leaves from there.
Train 110 min ↓
Day 3, NikkoMust
Nikko day trip: the gilded Toshogu, Shinkyo Bridge and Kegon Falls
The Tobu train from Asakusa (the Spacia limited express, 110 minutes, reserved seat): Shinkyo Bridge, the gilded mausoleum of Toshogu, the Irohazaka road and Kegon Falls, and Lake Chuzenji. Back to Asakusa in the evening. At night, send the big suitcase to Kyoto and pack a small bag for four nights. The full route: Nikko: the gilded Toshogu Shrine, Shinkyo Bridge and Kegon Falls.
Train 85 min ↓
Day 4, HakoneMust
Hakone Loop and a night in a ryokan
The Romancecar from Shinjuku, the mountain railway, the open-air museum, the ropeway over the sulfur valley, a boat on Lake Ashi, and the torii gate in the water. A two-day Hakone Pass (¥7,100) also covers the ride down to Odawara tomorrow. Tonight you sleep in a ryokan with an onsen, and do not return to Tokyo as in the single-day version. The full route: Hakone: the ropeway loop, sulfur eggs, Lake Ashi and an onsen.
Shinkansen 68 min ↓
Day 5, TakayamaMust
Hakone to Takayama, and the afternoon in the old town
A transfer day. Leave Hakone-Yumoto by 08:30 for Odawara (on the pass), the Hikari shinkansen to Nagoya (an hour and a quarter, ¥9,100 with a reserved seat), and the Hida limited express to Takayama (about two and a half hours, ¥6,140 with a reserved seat, with river views). You arrive at noon or a little after, and continue with the full route from the 13:15 stop: the festival float museum, the temple walk in Higashiyama, Hida Folk Village until it closes, and Hida beef in the evening near the station. If you want the Sanmachi lanes while they are open, swap Hida Folk Village for them. The morning market is left out on this day. The full route: Takayama: the morning markets, the Sanmachi lanes, sake and Hida beef.
Bus 50 min ↓
Day 6, Shirakawa-goMust
Shirakawa-go, the thatched-roof village, then on to Kanazawa
The first Nohi bus from Takayama, 07:20 (about 50 minutes, ¥2,800, reserved seat): the Shiroyama viewpoint, Wada House, the village, lunch in a gassho house, and the afternoon bus continues to Kanazawa (about 75 to 80 minutes, ¥2,800). Sleep in Kanazawa two nights. The full route: Shirakawa-go: the thatched village in the valley, from the morning viewpoint to the Wada House.
Walk 0 min ↓
Day 7, KanazawaMust
Kanazawa: Kenroku-en, Omicho Market, the geisha district and gold leaf
A full day in the city: crab at Omicho Market, the teahouses of Higashi Chaya while they are still empty, the castle, Kenroku-en, the 21st Century Museum, the samurai district, the Ninja Temple, and sushi in the evening by the station. The full route: Kanazawa: Omicho Market, the geisha district, Kenroku-en Garden and gold leaf.
Shinkansen 105 min ↓
Day 8, KyotoMust
Kanazawa to Kyoto, and Fushimi Inari in the afternoon
The Hokuriku shinkansen to Tsuruga and the Thunderbird limited express to Kyoto (an hour and 45 minutes to two and a quarter hours, depending on the connection, ¥7,720 with a reserved seat). The suitcase is waiting at the hotel. In the afternoon, the JR train to Inari (5 minutes, ¥150) and the gates: at 16:00 the crowds thin out and at sunset the gates glow orange. In the evening, yakitori at Torisei, in the sake district of Fushimi. The full-day version of Fushimi: Fushimi Inari: the torii gates at sunrise, Tofuku-ji and the sake district.
Bus 15 min ↓
Day 9, KyotoMust
Kyoto, Higashiyama: Kiyomizu-dera at sunrise, Sannenzaka, and Gion in the evening
The most photographed day in Kyoto, in an order that beats the crowds: the temple at 06:30, the lanes empty, Kodai-ji, a rest, and Gion as the lanterns come on. The full route: Higashiyama: Kiyomizu-dera in the morning, the Sannenzaka lanes, and Gion in the evening.
Train 15 min ↓
Day 10, KyotoMust
Kyoto: Arashiyama, the bamboo grove, Tenryu-ji and the monkeys
The bamboo grove at sunrise, the Zen garden of Tenryu-ji, the monkeys on the mountain, and the Romantic Train along the river. The full route: Arashiyama: the bamboo grove at sunrise, Tenryu-ji, monkeys and the Romantic Train.
Train 40 min ↓
Day 11, NaraMust
Nara: the deer, the Great Buddha and the lantern shrine
The Kintetsu train from Kyoto Station (35 to 45 minutes, ¥760): the deer, the Great Buddha at Todai-ji, the lanterns of Kasuga Taisha, Naramachi, and Sarusawa Pond in the evening. Back to Kyoto to sleep. The full route: Nara: the deer, the Great Buddha and the lantern shrine.
Train 30 min ↓
Day 12, OsakaMust
Osaka in one day: the castle, Kuromon, Shinsekai and Dotonbori
A 30-minute train from Kyoto to Osaka (¥580), suitcase in a locker or at the hotel. In Osaka you sleep three nights, until the flight. The castle, Kuromon Market, Shinsekai, and the neon of Dotonbori at night. The full route: Osaka in one day: the castle, Kuromon Market, Shinsekai and Dotonbori at night.
Shinkansen 85 min ↓
Day 13, HiroshimaMust
Hiroshima and Miyajima, a day trip from Osaka
A long day: an early Nozomi from Shin-Osaka to Hiroshima (an hour and 25 minutes, ¥10,950 each way with a reserved seat), and the tram to the Atomic Bomb Dome. In the morning the Peace Park and the museum, okonomiyaki for lunch, and in the afternoon the JR train and ferry to Miyajima, staying until the torii gate is lit. Back in Osaka around 22:00. If you prefer to sleep in Hiroshima, do Miyajima in the morning, which is a better order for photos. The full route: Hiroshima and Miyajima: the Peace Memorial in the morning, the floating torii gate in the evening.
Metro 20 min ↓
Day 14, OsakaRecommended
Osaka day two: Umeda Sky, Nakanoshima and Shinsaibashi
A last day with no travel: Nakanoshima, Shinsaibashi for last purchases, Umeda Sky at sunset, and the HEP FIVE Ferris wheel in the evening. The full route: Osaka, day two: Nakanoshima, Shinsaibashi, Umeda Sky at sunset and a rooftop bar. Tomorrow: 50 minutes to Kansai Airport.
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Written as a draft and verified by hand against official sources. Opening hours and prices change, so check before you go.