Tokyo Metropole & Greater Kanto · Tokyo, Shinjuku

Shinjuku: a free observatory, Gyoen garden, Omoide Yokocho and Golden Gai

The district that never sleeps, from west to east: the free observatory of the Metropolitan Government Building in the morning, the national garden and Isetan's food basement around midday, and at night Tokyo's two famous alleys.

A day of Shinjuku, from west to east. You start at opening time at the free observatory of the Metropolitan Government Building, eat lunch near the station's South Exit, and cross to the east side: Shinjuku Gyoen garden and Isetan's food basement. In the afternoon there is a break, and in the evening Kabukicho, yakitori in Omoide Yokocho, just across the tracks, tiny bars in Golden Gai and karaoke. All on foot, about 5 km between the stops plus the walk in the garden, without a single ride. Do not do this day on a Monday: the garden is closed.

This day is part of: From the Alps to the coast: Nagoya, Takayama, Shirakawa-go, Kanazawa and Tokyo in 6 days

Verified online, October 20269 stops · 09:30 to 22:30¥11,700 · ≈ $74 per personWalking between stops: 78 minGood for a second visit to TokyoNightNo kids in the evening

The day on a map

9 stops, in order

Stops: 9
Walking minutes: 78

Open this day in Google Maps

The same stops with the same numbers, and the way from stop to stop. On a phone it opens in the app, and that is what you navigate with in Japan. Pin names on the map are in Hebrew.

Getting there: Start at Tochomae Station on the Toei Oedo Line, which is connected to the Metropolitan Government Building, and not at Shinjuku Station, the busiest station in the world: it saves the confusion. If you come on the JR, leave by the West Exit of Shinjuku and walk about 12 minutes between the office towers.

09:3010:45
Stop 1ViewpointMust
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building: a free observatory on floor 45
You start at the Metropolitan Government Building, 202 meters, free, and on clear days you see Mount Fuji. Both observatories open at 09:30. The South Observatory is open until 22:00 on most days, so you can also come back at night, and the North Observatory closes at 17:30 (last entry 17:00). The South Observatory is closed on the first and third Tuesday of the month, and the North on the second and fourth Monday. Since 2024 a light show has been projected on the building's facade every evening.
FreeOpen in Maps About this place
Down to lunch
- Walk · 10 minFrom the Metropolitan Government Building head southeast, between the office towers of west Shinjuku, to Yoyogi 2-chome, a little southwest of the station's South Exit. About 800 meters.
11:0012:00
Stop 2LunchRecommended
Lunch break by the South Exit
From the observatory you go down to the south side of the station, on the way to the garden. There is no kosher place in Shinjuku. There is a vegan one, and it is among the dinner options. For lunch, choose:
- Fuunji
  Tsukemen, dipping noodles in a thick fish broth, one of the most famous ramen shops in Tokyo. Pay at the machine at the entrance and eat within 15 minutes, that is the style. 15 seats at a counter and a line of 20 to 40 minutes, no reservations. 11:00 to 15:00. No credit cards, but Suica is accepted.
- The NEWoMan food hall
  Food counters right by the new South Exit of Shinjuku Station, open 07:00 to 01:00. No line, and everyone picks something different.
- The Metropolitan Government staff cafeteria, floor 32From ¥440
  An in-house cafeteria in the Metropolitan Government Building that is also open to visitors, with a view over Shinjuku: a main dish from ¥440, ramen ¥570. Lunch 11:00 to 14:00, weekdays only, and you sign in at the entrance on the ground floor. If you eat here, you do not leave the building after the observatory, and walk from there straight to the garden.
- Kosher or vegan? Every kosher and vegan place in this city
¥1,200 · ≈ $8No reservations, a 20 to 40 minute lineOpen in Maps
On to the garden
- Walk · 15 minEast along Koshu-kaido, over the tracks at the South Exit, and carry on east to the garden's Shinjuku Gate. About 1.2 km.
12:1514:00
Stop 3GardenMust
Shinjuku Gyoen: three gardens in one
On the east side of the station, minutes from the busiest station in the world: a Japanese garden, an English garden and a French garden. During sakura (late March) people come here for a picnic, and without alcohol, by the rules. The Taiwan Kaku tea house is inside the garden. From October to mid-March the garden closes at 16:30 (last entry 16:00), and later the rest of the year. The garden is closed on Mondays.
¥500 · ≈ $3During sakura you need a dated online ticketOpen in Maps About this place
Up to Isetan
- Walk · 10 minLeave by the garden's Shinjuku Gate and carry on north, through Shinjuku 3-chome, to the department store at the crossing of Meiji-dori and Shinjuku-dori. About 500 meters from the gate.
14:1015:15
Stop 4ShoppingRecommended
Isetan's food basement (depachika)
The food floor (B1) of the Isetan department store, open 10:00 to 20:00: fresh market, prepared dishes and bento, grocery and changing sales events. Not kosher. The break comes next, and if you bought something, you leave it at the hotel.
¥1,500 · ≈ $10Open in Maps
15:1516:30
Break
A rest at the hotel, if you are staying in Shinjuku
The day starts at 09:30 and ends at 22:30, and most of it is in the evening: Kabukicho, Omoide Yokocho, Golden Gai and karaoke. If you are staying on the east side of the station, in Shinjuku-sanchome or near Kabukicho, you walk from Isetan to the hotel in a few minutes. If you are staying in west Shinjuku, it is about a quarter of an hour on foot, through the station's East Exit. At 16:30 head out again, to Kabukicho. If you are staying in Shibuya, do not go back: from Isetan you walk about 8 minutes to the East Exit of Shinjuku Station and ride another 7 minutes on the JR (¥200), and with the walk at the other end that is almost half an hour each way. If you are not going back, carry on to the next stop, the samurai museum, 3 minutes from Isetan.
On to the samurai museum
- Walk · 3 minFrom Isetan go north, cross Yasukuni-dori to Shinjuku 5-chome. About 200 meters.
15:2016:30
Stop 5MuseumIf there is time
Maikoya's Samurai Museum near Shinjuku Station
If you did not go back to the hotel, carry on here. The old Samurai Museum in Kabukicho has been closed since 2022, and most blogs have not been updated. In its place, in December 2025 Maikoya opened a museum in Shinjuku 5-chome, about a kilometer east of Shinjuku Station, with armor to try on and a sword demonstration. Good with kids. A quiet alternative: the Japanese Sword Museum in Sumida, 30 minutes by train.
¥2,000 · ≈ $13Booking recommendedOpen in Maps
Into Kabukicho
- Walk · 10 minNorthwest, cross Yasukuni-dori and enter Kabukicho, up to the tower. About 700 meters.
16:4517:45
Stop 6District walkRecommended
Kabukicho and Godzilla on the roof
If you went back to the hotel, join here. The entertainment district, still innocent at this hour: the Godzilla head on the Gracery hotel, the new Kabukicho Tower, and gachapon machines. Never go into a place someone on the street invites you to, that is an iron rule.
FreeOpen in Maps
Down to dinner
- Walk · 8 minSouthwest, under the JR tracks, to the alley on the west side of the station. About 500 meters.
18:0019:30
Stop 7DinnerMust
Dinner in Shinjuku
In the evening Shinjuku fills with charcoal smoke. Two options near the West Exit, and one on the east side, on the way to Golden Gai. Choose:
- Omoide YokochoAbout ¥3,000
  About 60 places to eat and drink in narrow alleys, more than half of them yakitori or motsuyaki. Order skewers and a beer. Some charge a seat fee and many take cash only.
- Uogashi Nihon Ichi, Shinjuku NishiguchiFrom ¥75 a piece
  A standing sushi bar, about 50 to 60 kinds of fish, priced by the piece from ¥75. 4 minutes from the alley. Weekdays until 23:00, Fridays and Saturdays until 22:00.
- Ain Soph Journey, ShinjukuVegan, not kosher
  A fully vegan restaurant, opposite Exit C5 of Shinjuku-sanchome Station, on the east side and on the way to Golden Gai. Dinner 18:00 to 21:30, last order 21:00. Reservations online only. The signature dish is a vegan pancake.
- Kosher or vegan? Every kosher and vegan place in this city
¥3,000 · ≈ $19No reservationsOpen in Maps About this place
On to Golden Gai
- Walk · 12 minFrom the West Exit go under the tracks to the east side, and carry on northeast to the alleys, near Hanazono Shrine. About 650 meters. From Ain Soph Journey the way is shorter.
19:4521:15
Stop 8NightRecommended
Golden Gai: 200 bars in six alleys
Every bar is a room of 5 to 8 seats with a personality of its own: jazz, horror, punk. Look for a sign in English with 'no cover charge', and talk to the bartender, that is the whole point. No photos without asking.
¥2,000 · ≈ $13Open in Maps About this place
Finish with karaoke
- Walk · 10 minFrom the alleys head back to the main streets of east Shinjuku, to the Karaoke Kan branch. About 400 meters.
21:3022:30
Stop 9NightIf there is time
Karaoke in Shinjuku: the Japanese finish
You finish in a private karaoke room for an hour, with microphones and drinks from the menu. After 20:00 the price goes up, but for a group it is still cheap. If you are staying in at the hotel: the South Observatory of the Metropolitan Government Building is open until 22:00 and lit up.
¥1,500 · ≈ $10Open in Maps

Shinjuku: a free observatory, Gyoen garden, Omoide Yokocho and Golden Gai

9 stops, in order

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building: a free observatory on floor 45

Lunch break by the South Exit

Shinjuku Gyoen: three gardens in one

Isetan's food basement (depachika)

A rest at the hotel, if you are staying in Shinjuku

Maikoya's Samurai Museum near Shinjuku Station

Kabukicho and Godzilla on the roof

Dinner in Shinjuku

Golden Gai: 200 bars in six alleys

Karaoke in Shinjuku: the Japanese finish

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