Tokyo · Shinjuku

Omoide Yokocho

Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁) is a row of narrow alleys at the West Exit of Shinjuku Station. According to the local merchants' association, about 80 businesses are packed in here on about 630 tsubo, about 2,080 square meters: about 60 places to eat and drink, more than half of them yakitori and motsuyaki (offal skewers), alongside money changers and ticket shops. At the edges there are also branches of fast-food chains.

According to the association, around 1946 food stalls stood here on the ruins left after the war, and they burned down completely. In their place rose a black market of stalls separated by a wooden board, called 'Lucky Street'. Around 1947 flour and other staples were under strict control, but offal from the occupying army was not, so many stalls switched to grilling it. Around 1959, with the expansion of the subway and the construction of the station building, about 300 businesses treated as squatting on the land were evicted, and only the section reaching Ome Road remained.

On 24 November 1999 a fire broke out here. According to a 2020 article in Gendai, it destroyed about a third of the alley. In the middle alley rebuilding was impossible because of the road access rules, so the businesses there were renovated around the existing columns. The association set 24 November as 'Omoide Yokocho Day'.

Good to know

  • Come with cash. In the association's survey from April 2021 about 60 percent of the businesses took only cash, and Go Tokyo presents the alley as cash only. Some charge otoshi, a seating fee with a small dish, and some require a dish and a drink per person or set a 90-minute limit (according to the same survey, so it is worth confirming at the counter).
  • The food is not kosher. The skewers are mainly pork, beef and chicken offal, and some places also have whale, frog and soft-shell turtle. In the middle alley there are no toilets inside the businesses, and there are shared toilets. Smoking is allowed only inside a business that permits it.
  • The association bans tripods and flash in the alleys, and filming by a production requires advance permission (¥30,000 for half an hour, excluding tax). The rules do not address ordinary phone photos by visitors.

What is nearby

Approximate walking minutes from the entrance of Omoide Yokocho.

  1. Here
    Omoide Yokocho
  2. ~3 min

    Odakyu Department Store Shinjuku (Halc) Shopping

    Since 2022 the department store has been inside the Halc building at the West Exit, six floors together with Bic Camera.

    MapsSource

  3. ~3 min

    Keio Department Store Shinjuku Shopping

    Another department store attached to the station, on the other side of the plaza from Odakyu.

    MapsSource

  4. ~4 min

    Uogashi Nihon Ichi Shinjuku Nishiguchi Food

    A standing sushi bar, about 50 to 60 kinds of fish, priced per piece from ¥75.

    Weekdays 11:00-23:00, Saturday until 22:00, Sunday until 21:30MapsSource

  5. ~5 min

    Yodobashi Camera Shinjuku West Main Store Shopping

    A complex of several adjoining buildings: electronics, cameras, watches and games.

    MapsSource

  6. ~12 min

    Musashino no Mori Diner Cafe

    An American-style diner inside Shinjuku Central Park, open from 07:00.

    From 07:00MapsSource

More in Shinjuku

Appears in: Shinjuku: a free observatory, Gyoen garden, Omoide Yokocho and Golden Gai

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