Kyoto · Kurama and Kibune
Kurama-dera Temple
According to the temple's history, in 770 the monk Gantei, a disciple of the Chinese monk Ganjin, climbed here following a dream and a white horse. On the mountain a demon woman attacked him, the god Bishamonten saved him, and he built a temple to the god. In the Heian period nobles and women writers came up here: Sei Shonagon wrote about the winding path to the temple in 'The Pillow Book', and according to the temple, Murasaki Shikibu described it in 'The Tale of Genji'.
Minamoto no Yoshitsune, who as a child was called Ushiwakamaru, was sent to the temple at about age 7 and left it at 16. According to legend, by day he studied Buddhism here and by night the tengu, the mountain demons, taught him to fight in the Sojogadani valley. Since 1949 Kurama-dera has been the head temple of an independent school, Kurama Kokyo.
On the way up you pass Yuki Shrine, moved here in 940, where the Kurama Fire Festival is held every year on 22 October: villagers carry torches through the streets from 18:00 until after midnight. Above the main hall the path continues along the 'root path', a stretch where the cedar roots crawl over the ground because the rock is too hard for them to penetrate, and goes down to the west gate and Kibune.
Good to know
- The cable car is a 'donation' and not a fare: the temple runs it to help visitors who find walking hard, and according to the temple it is the only cable car line in Japan with a railway license that is run by a religious body. The ride takes 2 minutes, and from the upper station it is about 10 more minutes on foot to the hall.
- On 27 October 2026 the cable car does not run in the morning because of an inspection. Without the cable car you walk up the winding path: about 5 minutes from the gate to Yuki Shrine and about 20 more minutes to the main hall.
- The way to Kibune, according to the temple: from the main hall about 30 minutes to the Maoden hall, and about 20 more minutes to the west gate and Kibune. The paths were left as dirt and roots on purpose, so you need closed shoes, and in rain they are slippery.
- On the day of the fire festival, 22 October 2026, the road between Kibuneguchi and Kurama is closed to cars from 15:00 and all parking lots are closed. Come by Eizan Railway, and expect the return in the evening to be crowded.
What is nearby
Approximate walking minutes from the entrance of Kurama-dera Temple.
- HereKurama-dera Temple
- 1 min
Yoshuji Food
A restaurant across from the temple gate, with large tatami rooms, serving vegetable-based monastic cuisine and soba with tororo. There are vegetarian options. A dish costs about ¥1,000 to ¥2,000, no credit cards.
- ~2 min
Nagomiya Kotengu Food
Soba, coffee and sweets near the station, 30 seats, some on tatami. Cash only.
- ~2 min
Tamondo Cafe
A sweet shop near the station. The known item is ushiwaka-mochi, named after Yoshitsune as a child, served with matcha. Cash only.
- ~5 min
Kurama Tsujii Shopping
A tsukudani shop, foods preserved in soy sauce. The known product is kinome-ni, kombu simmered with the leaves and berries of sansho pepper.
- ~8 min
Kurama Onsen More to see
Kyoto's mountain onsen at the northern end of the Eiden line, with an outdoor pool facing the forest.
More in Kurama and Kibune
Appears in: Kurama and Kibune: a walk on the tengu's mountain, the water shrine, and a meal above the stream