Osaka & Kansai Coast · Wakayama, Nachi-Katsuura

Kumano Kodo: the Daimon-zaka steps, Nachi shrine and Japan's tallest waterfall

A one-day taste of the thousand-year-old pilgrimage trail (a World Heritage site, sister trail of the Camino de Santiago): moss-covered stone steps between 800-year-old cedars, a shrine on the mountain with a red pagoda facing a 133-meter waterfall, a tuna bowl in the harbor, and an onsen in a cave facing the ocean.

One day on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail, from Kii-Katsuura, the town where you sleep. You start the morning on the stone steps of Daimon-zaka, climb to Nachi shrine and the red pagoda facing the waterfall, and go down to the waterfall itself. At midday you ride the bus back to Katsuura's tuna harbor, in the afternoon you cross the bay by boat to an onsen in a cave facing the sea, and in the evening you eat tuna near the station. The walking is in the morning, about 2 km, most of it steps uphill. The rides: the bus to Daimon-zaka ¥480, and the bus back from the falls ¥630, cash only.

Verified online, September 20267 stops · 08:30 to 20:30¥8,800 · ≈ $56 per personWalking between stops: 49 min · Transport: ¥630Nature walkStairsNot in heavy rain

The day on a map

7 stops, in order

Stops: 7
Walking minutes: 35

Stop number on the timelineWalkingTrain, metro or busBase map: © OpenStreetMap

Open this day in Google Maps

The same stops with the same numbers, and the way from stop to stop. On a phone it opens in the app, and that is what you navigate with in Japan. Pin names on the map are in Hebrew.

Getting there: From Osaka: the Kuroshio limited express from Shin-Osaka to Kii-Katsuura with no change, about 4 hours, ¥7,260 to ¥7,460 in a reserved seat, depending on the season, and the JR Pass is valid on it. Sleep in Katsuura at least one night. This is not a day trip from Kyoto, it is too far. In the morning, leave Kii-Katsuura Station on bus 31 toward Nachisan and get off at the Daimon-zaka stop, 18 minutes, ¥480. In the morning the buses leave every 40 to 50 minutes, for example at 07:35 and 08:25.

08:3010:00
Stop 1TrailMust
Daimon-zaka: 267 stone steps between the Meoto cedars
You start on the famous section of the Kumano Kodo: 600 meters of moss-covered stone steps through forest, and at the entrance a pair of 800-year-old cedars, Meoto-sugi, 'the couple trees'. Free. Near the entrance you can rent Heian-period pilgrim costumes for photos, ¥3,000. The climb takes 40 minutes, slowly.
FreeOpen in Maps
Up to Nachi shrine
- Walk · 15 minFrom the top of Daimon-zaka keep climbing, up the steps between the souvenir shops, to the gate of Kumano Nachi Taisha.
10:1511:45
Stop 2Shrine and templeMust
Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji: the pagoda facing the waterfall
One of the three grand shrines of Kumano, on the mountain. Next to it is the Buddhist temple Seiganto-ji, with a red 3-story pagoda and Nachi Falls in the background: the photo of the whole Kumano trail. The shrine and temple grounds are free, the treasure hall is ¥300, and climbing the pagoda is ¥500, 08:30 to 16:00. The 3-legged crow, Yatagarasu, the messenger of Kumano, appears everywhere.
¥500 · ≈ $3Open in Maps
Down to the waterfall
- Walk · 15 minFrom the pagoda walk down the forest path, about 800 meters, to the gate of Hiryu Jinja, the shrine at the foot of the waterfall.
12:0012:30
Stop 3WaterfallMust
Nachi Falls: 133 meters in a single drop, seen from the altar
133 meters in a single drop, the tallest waterfall in Japan, and itself the deity of Hiryu Shrine. Walk down the steps to the shrine at its foot, free, and the platform closest to the spray costs ¥300. Drink the sacred water from a cup, ¥100, for a long life.
¥300 · ≈ $2Open in Maps
Down to Katsuura harbor
- Bus · 30 min · ¥630From the falls go down to the Nachi-no-Taki-mae bus stop, on the road below the gate, and ride bus 32 to Kii-Katsuura Station, 24 minutes. At midday a bus leaves about every half hour, at 12:34, 13:04 and 13:29. From the station it is 4 minutes on foot to the fishing harbor.
13:1514:15
Stop 4LunchMust
Lunch break at Katsuura harbor
According to the town, Katsuura harbor lands the largest amount in Japan of fresh tuna caught on longlines, and the fish here are never frozen. Tuna bowls, maguro-don, cost ¥1,500 to ¥2,500 at the restaurants near the fish market. The auction at the market is in the morning, at 07:00, and there is a viewing deck. The options:
- Katsuura harbor market, Nigiwai Ichiba
  The fishing harbor's market, with stalls of tuna, sushi and drinks, and an eating area on a wooden deck facing the sea. 08:00 to 16:00, last order half an hour before closing, closed on Tuesdays.
- Senryu¥1,080 to ¥1,900
  An old restaurant facing Kii-Katsuura Station: tekka-don, tuna on rice, at ¥1,080, a tuna sashimi set at ¥1,400, and the house set with sashimi and sanma sushi at ¥1,900. 08:00 to 16:00, irregular closing days.
- Maguro Zanmai Nachi
  A tuna restaurant near the station, open straight through 11:00 to 21:00, last order 20:30, and irregular closing days. Handy if you arrive after lunch hours.
- Kosher or vegan? Every kosher and vegan place in this city
¥2,000 · ≈ $13Open in Maps
Out to the bay
- Walk · 5 minFrom the market along the pier, a few hundred meters, to the hotel boat pier, Kanko-sanbashi.
14:3016:00
Stop 5CoastIf there is time
The Katsuura peninsula: rocks, sea caves and a hotel ferry
Small hotel boats leave the harbor and cross the bay, free for guests, including day visitors to the onsen. Walk along the cliffs to a lookout over the sea rocks, and in summer there is a swimming beach at Nachi. The bay is small and quiet, and you can sit on the pier for an hour, and this is your break for the day.
FreeOpen in Maps
Across to the cave onsen
- Ferry · 10 minFrom Kanko-sanbashi pier, about 6 minutes on foot from the station, the Hotel Urashima boat leaves about every 15 minutes, and the crossing takes about 5 minutes. Day visitors to the onsen ride it too.
16:3018:00
Stop 6OnsenMust
Hotel Urashima: an onsen in a cave facing the ocean waves
A huge hotel on a cliff, famous for the Bokido bath: a natural cave open to the sea, where you sit in the hot water while the waves break a few meters away. Day visitors are admitted 09:00 to 18:00, bathing until 19:00, and Bokido is closed for cleaning 10:00 to 13:00. Admission is ¥2,500, with towels. If you are sleeping here: this is the night of the trip.
¥2,500 · ≈ $16Day visitors: check the hours in advanceOpen in Maps
Back to the station for dinner
- Ferry · 15 minThe hotel boat back to Kanko-sanbashi pier, about 5 minutes, and from there about 6 minutes on foot to the street by the station.
18:3020:30
Stop 7DinnerRecommended
Dinner near Kii-Katsuura Station
You finish with tuna, near the station: grilled, as sashimi, or kama, roasted tuna head, with Wakayama plum wine, ¥3,000 to ¥4,000. The town goes to sleep at 21:00, and from there you head back to the hotel. The options:
- Bodai
  A restaurant of creative Japanese cuisine and tuna, a minute from the station. A sashimi platter of three kinds, with fresh tuna, ¥1,850. Evenings 17:30 to 21:30, last order 21:00, closed on Tuesdays and on other irregular days.
- Katsuragi
  A tuna restaurant about 8 minutes on foot from the station, with tuna sets, kama-yaki, a fried tuna cutlet and side dishes made from tuna stomach. Evenings from 17:00, closed on Mondays and on the fourth Sunday of the month.
- Maguro Zanmai Nachi
  The tuna restaurant near the station, open until 21:00, last order 20:30, and irregular closing days.
- Kosher or vegan? Every kosher and vegan place in this city
¥3,500 · ≈ $22Open in Maps

Kumano Kodo: the Daimon-zaka steps, Nachi shrine and Japan's tallest waterfall

7 stops, in order

Daimon-zaka: 267 stone steps between the Meoto cedars

Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji: the pagoda facing the waterfall

Nachi Falls: 133 meters in a single drop, seen from the altar

Lunch break at Katsuura harbor

The Katsuura peninsula: rocks, sea caves and a hotel ferry

Hotel Urashima: an onsen in a cave facing the ocean waves

Dinner near Kii-Katsuura Station

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